Health Sports

Health & Safety : How to Properly Ride a Wave?

It’s that time of the year where the sun is out and everyone want’s to be as close to a pool or beach as possible. Surfing is a great activity that will be enjoyed by everyone, it is a fun way to get into the ocean and catch some rad waves. Most beginners will start training on a long board which measures around 9 feet long as it’s a lot easier to ride and safer for those inexperienced.

 

HOW TO SURF – The Beginning

 

  • Firstly, you’ll want to walk into the ocean with your board until the water reaches your waist.
  • Make sure you point the nose of your board in front and away from the shore.
  • Climb up onto your board.
  • Once you’re laying flat on your stomach, paddle out into the deep blue ocean.

 

Important : Search for areas that have smaller waves where big ones have already broken. Remember to attach the protective leash of the board to your ankle.

 

 

  • When you’re ready to catch some waves you’ll need to turn you board towards the shore.
  • Look out for an achievable wave.
  • Lay yourself forwards and start to paddle whilst the wave you’ve caught your eye on builds behind you.

 

 

Important : If you position yourself as close to the center of the board as possible, it’ll help you balance and not be washed over.

 

 

  • Continue to remain laying on your front if you’re only a beginner but for those who are ready to take a risk, this will be the best time to slowly begin to raise your body up and balance out the wave until you reach the shore.

 

How do I know if I’m doing it right?

Most of the boards will have a line that runs down the board, make sure you are standing stable on this line to achieve a successful ride. Improving your balance might take a couple of rough falls until you master your board. Nothing comes easy without experience. Once you’ve mastered the long board you will be ready to start a new challenge of the short board, this provides effortless movement as it weighs a lot less which will give you more freedom to use those hips and legs to perfect your wave catching skills.

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